The leather we choose and why.

Here at Willow Bank Leather, we use full-grain Vegetable Tanned leather. In this post, we’ll explore what this means, the sustainability benefits of vegetable tanning, and what it means for your handcrafted item.

When it comes to leather, sustainability is becoming an increasingly important issue as consumers seek to minimise their environmental impact. Two of the most common methods for tanning leather are vegetable tanning (veg-tan) and chrome tanning, each with distinct characteristics and environmental considerations. In this post, we’ll explore the differences between these two types of leather, with a particular focus on their sustainability.

Veg-Tan Leather: A Natural Process

Vegetable tanning is one of the oldest methods of tanning leather. It uses tannins extracted from plant sources like oak, hemlock, and chestnut to treat the hide. This process can take several weeks, resulting in leather with a rich, earthy colour that deepens and softens over time.

From a sustainability perspective, veg-tan leather is often considered the more eco-friendly option. The use of plant-based materials means fewer chemicals are released into the environment, and the tanning process typically generates less pollution. Additionally, vegetable tanning is a biodegradable process, meaning the leather itself breaks down more easily when discarded, which reduces its long-term environmental impact.

Chrome-Tan Leather: Faster and More Efficient, but Less Green

Chrome tanning, on the other hand, is a quicker, more industrialised method. It uses chromium salts (usually chromium sulphate) to treat the hide, typically within a matter of days. This process results in leather that is more water-resistant, softer, and requires less maintenance compared to veg-tan leather.

However, the sustainability of chrome tanning is often questioned. Chromium is a toxic substance, and improper disposal of waste by-products can lead to environmental contamination. Although modern chrome tanning methods are more regulated, the process still has a significant environmental footprint, especially when compared to vegetable tanning. Additionally, chrome-tanned leather is not biodegradable and can take much longer to decompose in landfills.

Leather as a By-Product of the Meat Industry

It’s also important to remember that leather, whether veg-tanned or chrome-tanned, is a by-product of the meat industry. Leather itself is not a primary agricultural product but rather a waste product from the slaughter of livestock. While this makes leather a more sustainable option in the sense that it utilises what would otherwise be discarded, the ethics and environmental impact of the meat industry still play a role in the overall sustainability of leather production.

What is Full-Grain Leather?

Full-grain leather is the highest quality leather available. It comes from the top layer of the hide, which contains the strongest and most durable fibres. Unlike other types of leather, such as top-grain or bonded leather, full-grain leather is not sanded or buffed to remove imperfections, so it retains the natural texture and grain pattern of the hide. This makes it unique and rich in character, with every piece showcasing its own individual markings and variations.

Benefits of Full-Grain Leather

Durability: Full-grain leather is incredibly tough and long-lasting. The tight, dense fibres in the top layer make it resistant to wear and tear, which means items made from full-grain leather—like wallets, bags, and belts—can last for decades with proper care.
Aging Beautifully: Over time, full-grain leather develops a patina—a soft, lustrous sheen that adds to its aesthetic appeal. This patina is the result of natural oils and environmental exposure, meaning the leather improves in appearance the more it’s used, becoming uniquely personalised to the owner.
Breathability and Comfort: Because full-grain leather retains its natural pores, it’s breathable and allows air to circulate. This makes it more comfortable to wear or carry, as it can regulate moisture and temperature more effectively than other types of leather.
Strength and Flexibility: The unaltered structure of full-grain leather provides an excellent balance of strength and flexibility. It’s tough enough to withstand heavy use, but it also retains the ability to soften and mould to the shape of the user over time, making it both functional and comfortable.

What This Means for Your Product

When you choose a product made from full-grain leather, you’re selecting a material known for its natural beauty and individuality. Each piece of leather tells its own story, with subtle variations in colour, texture, and markings that make it unique. These characteristics enhance the leather's richness and depth, and as your product ages, it will develop a beautiful patina that reflects its journey with you.

At Willow Bank Leather, we carefully select and work with each hide to ensure a balance of consistency and natural beauty. While each piece is unique, we take great care to craft every item with attention to detail, ensuring that the overall aesthetic remains harmonious. We believe in celebrating the natural variations of the leather, while maintaining the quality and integrity of the product.

As your leather item is used and cared for, it will soften and evolve, becoming more beautiful with time. The character of the leather will only grow richer, making each piece feel more personal and distinctive as it ages.